Consumption And Costing

This is primary and important job for a merchandiser to know how to do fabric consumption and costing of any garments.

The most important factor is the costing which will be done by a merchandiser must commensurate with the prevailing market price, otherwise the costing will not be accepted by the buyer as such he will inclined to such factory to place order who’s costing is more realistic and at par with the prevailing market price. Now to do a reasonable garment costing a merchandiser need to equip him with certain tools and techniques to do reasonable costing.

** Head Of Costing

Example costing Head:-

Cost of fabric ˸ : USD 30.00
Cost of Accessories ˸ : USD 3.00
Cost of printing ˸ : USD 2.00
Cost of Embroidery ˸ : USD 3.5
Cost of Washing ˸ : USD 1.5
Cost of value addition work˸ : USD 3.00
Up charge for C&F order ˸ : USD 1.00
Commercial Cost ˸ : USD 0.50
Up charge for deferred L/C˸ : USD 0.10

Cost of making ˸ : USD 12.00
Charge for miscellaneous expenses ˸: USD 0.05
Total Cost (Per dozen) ˸ : USD 56.65
Buyer’s Commission ˸ : 2%
Local Commission ˸ : 5%
Final Cost ˸ : 60.91
Final Cost (Per Piece) ˸ : USD 5.08
Quoted price per pc ˸ : USD 5.10
Revised price per pc ˸ : USD 5.00
Confirmed Price per pc ˸ : USD 4.95

** Factors Affecting Consumption And Costing

• Yarn/Fiber content
• Yarn count and type (carded or combed)
• Knitting pattern
• Finishing of fabric
• Lab test requirement
• Type of dyes and chemicals to be used
• Tolerance in dye lot and shade variation
• Any restriction on use dyes and chemicals
• Packing type and assortment
• Design and pattern of garments
• Matching instruction in case Y/D and printed fabrics.

• Number of garments to be packed per poly, blister and carton
• Ply of carton and type of poly and thickness of poly.
• Details of shipping marks and carton marks.
• Details of accessories and their sources
• Details of printing and lab test requirement
• Details of embroidery
• Level of AQL
• Production lead time
• Quantity of garments
• Number of color and size in the order including lab test requirement for all colors
• Size and color ratio
• Tolerance in measurement and color shade variation.
• Inspection authority
• Any hidden losses

** Consumption For One Dozen Polo Shirt

Formula for fabrics consumption

A) Cpd (body) = Body length X Width X 2 X 12 X GSM/10000000
= 82.75 X 54.52 X 2 X 12 X 180/10000000
= 2.19

B) Cpd (Sleeve) = Length X Width X 2 X 12 X GSM/10000000
= 25.51 X 58.25 X 2 X 12 X 180/10000000
= 0.641

C) Cpd (Neck) = Length X Width X 2 X 12 X GSM/10000000
= 7.25 X 22.5 X 2 X 12 X 220/10000000
= 0.086

Total Cpd = (A+B+C)
= 2.091 + 0.641 + 0.086
= 2.819

Actual Cpd = total CPD + 12% wastage
= 2.819 +12%
= 3.16 Kg/Doz

So the fabrics consumption for a men’s Polo Shirt is in 3.16kgs/Dozen.

 

** List Of Sewing Machine & Name Of Stitch Used In Polo Shirt

List of Sewing Machine

• Over lock Machine
• Flat Lock Machine
• Plain Sewing Machine
• Buttonhole Machine
• Button Sewing Machine

Name of Stitch used in Polo Shirt:

• Over edge chain stitch (produced from over lock machine) for side seam join, arm hole join, shoulder join and collar.
• Covering chain stitch (produced from flat lock machine) for bottom hem, sleeve hem and neck join (collar join).
• Lock stitch (produced from plain sewing machine) for collar, button placket, label attachment and tape join in collar (if necessary).
• Lock stitch and chain stitch (produced from buttonhole machine) for buttonhole.
• Chain stitch (produced from buttonhole sewing machine) for button sewing.

A. Covering Chain stitch (flat lock Machine): Produced from three thread:
01. Bottom Hem = 22.5” + 22.5” = 45”
02. Sleeve Hem = 14” X 2= 28”
Total = 45+28 = 73”

Needle Thread (NT) = 1” = 3.6”
Needle Thread (NT) = 1” = 4.0”
Looped Thread (LT) = 1” = 7.0”
Total = (3.6+4+7) = 14.6= 15”

Total Thread Needed = 73” X 15” = 1095”
1 cone = 4000 meter, 1 meter = 39.37

1095” = 1095/39.37
= 27.81 meter.
A = 28 meter.

B. Over Edge Chain Stitch (Over Lock Machine): Produced from four thread or three thread:
01. Side seam = 27” X 2 = 54”
02. Arm hole = 11” + 11” = 22”
03. Collar join = 20X1” = 20”
04. Shoulder join = 8.5” X 2” = 17”
05. Button Placket = 6.5+6. 5+ = 13+2 =15”

Total = (54+22+20+17+15) = 150”
Needle Thread = 1” = 1.9”
Needle Thread = 1” = 2.0”
Looped Thread = 1”=9.7”
Looped Thread = 1”=7.0”
Total = 20.6” = 21” (Two Needle & Two looper)
Total Thread Needed = 150” X 21” = 3150”
1 Cone = 4000 meter, 1 meter = 39.37”
3150” = 3150/39.37 meter
= 80.01 meter
B = 80 meter.

C. Lock Stitch (Plain Sewing Machine): Produced from Two thread:

01. Shoulder Join Top Stitch = 8.5” X 2 = 17”
02. Twill Tape Join at Collar = 20” X 1 = 20”
03. Button Placket = 6.5” + 6.5” + 6.5” + 2” + 2” + 2” + 2” = 27.5” =28”
Total =(28+20+17)= 65”
Needle Thread (NT)= 1” = 1.5”
Bobbin Thread (BT) = 1” =1.5”

Total Thread Needed = 65” X 3” =195”
1 Cone = 4000 Meter, 1 Meter = 39.37”
195” = 195/39.37 Meter.
= 4.95 Meter
C = 5 meter.

D. Lock stitch & Chain stitch (Button Hole Machine & Button Sewing Machine):

01. Button Hole = 1” = 15” (NT) X 3 = 45”
02. Button Attaching = 1” = 10” (NT) X 3= 30”
Total = 75”
Total Thread Needed = 75”
1 Cone = 4000 Meter, 1 Meter = 39.37”
75” = 75/39.37 Meter
=1.91 Meter
D = 2 Meter.

Net sewing thread consumption
= (A+B+c+D) Meter
= (28+80+5+2)Meter
=115 Meter + Add Wastage 30%
= 115 Meter + 34.5 Meter
=149.5 Meter = 150 Meter / Pieces

Standard Rules of Polo Shirt for Net Sewing Thread Consumption = 120 Meters. (Add wastage 20% to 30%)

 

** Appliqué Consumption For Knit Garments

Say,
Appliqué length = 25 cm
Appliqué width = 15 cm
Fabric GSM = 160

Rules:
Length X width X GSM X 12/ 10000000 + Wastage

= 25 X 15 X 160 X 12/10000000 + 25%
= 0.09 KG per dozen (consumption of the appliqué)

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